Welcome to our Blog.
We will be departing on our journey to Norway, Iceland, Greenland, Spitsbergen, St Petersburg, Helsinki and Berlin on or about the 21st May. The actual date may vary due to our standby travel status. We will periodically be uploading new posts on our blog, so that you’ll be able to keep track of our movements throughout the whole journey. I am writing this on my brand-new iPad, which I bought especially for this trip.
We are looking forward to having your company on our travels.
Alan & Elly
Singapore to London Monday 21 May 2012
Well, for those of you who are envious of our concession travel, gather around!
We decided to take the Jetstar flight to Singapore because the Qantas flight was full. This meant catching the flight at 11 am rather than the 3:30 pm Qantas, and having 7 hours to kill in Singapore.
That went smoothly, so we settled in at Changi with a couple of drinks and out with the iPad to book an hotel in London – due to stay with friends Elly met in Burma on the first night, and hotel after that. The 7 hours took forever – not just 7 hours.
Then the staff travel game began. One hour before departure, 11 pm, (1 am Melbourne time), all the freeloaders (us and about 10 others) gathered around pretending to be friendly with each other, but, in reality, knowing that all these bastards are trying to take our seats, and knowing that we are probably the lowest priority ( retired). This wait dragged on, and even though the check in girl had earlier predicted we would get on, the man with the bad news arrived.
There were no seats available to London, because a British Airways flight had been cancelled, and all available passengers had been shoved onto our flight! We could come back tomorrow night and try again. Great. The man did say that the BA flight was going to depart at 7 am, and we could come back at 4 am and try our luck on that flight, which, theoretically, should have some spare seats because of the buggers they had shoved across onto our flight.
We tossed up whether to find accommodation for a few hours, or just stay at the airport – we decided on the latter, and spent hours trying to sleep on airport seats. At 4 am we went over to the desk to find that the flight was delayed to 9 am. Are we having fun yet?
A couple more hours passed, with a scenario with which I am familiar, the operations people put up a departure time based on their interpretation of the engineers’ guesswork as to when the repairs would be done. 9 am turned into unknown, and we started to think that it would be cancelled, and all the remaining passengers would again be dumped on our flight. We then found a few people who had been stuck there for 3 days, and that was decision time. Rather than be stuck there, we decided to pay full fare wherever we could get a seat.
That necessitated a bus ride in to the city and buying a fare with Etihad, to London via Abu Dhabi. So 36 hours after leaving home we had achieved around 2 hrs sleep ( more for Elly, she could sleep on a camel), and we were still in Singapore.
We love our staff travel, it can be such a joy. We are now looking forward to the time when we have to pay full fare every time!
I leave you with us waiting the final 3 hours until our Etihad flight. Hopefully these repairs won’t take too long.
London 25 May 2012
We finally arrived in London and found our hotel, quite a nice, typical London hotel in a line of other typical London hotels. The Rose Park Hotel, 5 mins walk to Paddington tube station, and adjacent to Hyde Park & Kensington Gardens.
The Etihad flight was uneventful and pretty basic. The only thing we had any concerns about was a very morbid, spooky, prayer on the entertainment system and P.A. just prior to take-off. It was like Boris Karloff whispering in your ear ” You are about to die, but don’t worry, God is expecting you”.
First up was lunch with our good friend, Donna Blake, one of our Hong Kong friends who keeps in touch over the years. First drinks of the day!
That evening we met up with Colin & Sue Buchan, also friends from our Hong Kong days, and who now live in Edinburgh. They were in London by lucky chance, and we had a great evening with them – wonderful to catch up. Colin has a rule – one bottle of wine per head – not sure whether that is a minimum or maximum. Doesn’t matter, we obeyed it either way.
We had fairly sensible plans for the next day, meeting with Stephanie and Paul Brown, whom Elly had met on her Burma bike ride. However, since we were awake at 0630, Elly decide we had time to do MUCH more. We would get up, miss breakfast, go to Victoria coach station, and get on a bus tour around London, incorporating a boat ride on the Thames and the changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace. Then we would meet Stephanie for lunch!
Didn’t happen. We missed breakfast alright, then we missed the bus.
We did get to the changing of the guard, then to Oxo Tower for lunch on the balcony overlooking the Thames. We had been told by everyone the the weather was terrible and cold, and to pack warm things – it was 29 degrees!
We finally arrived at restaurant to meet Stephanie, – she had rung Paul to say that we were late, and had told him that Elly was probably taking photos somewhere. She has only known Elly a short time, but obviously she has her nailed.
Thoroughly enjoyed meeting Stephanie and Paul for lunch and tour of the National Portrait gallery and drinks before the theatre.
That evening we had tickets to “War Horse” the stage show. Just brilliant. I was glad we had seen the movie first, because some things were different or missing from the stage show, but the horse puppets were incredible. Their actions, their neighing, breathing, their fear were so well portrayed you hardly noticed the people operating them. Amazing that anyone could come up with concept.
Up reasonably early on the 24th, had breakfast this time, then went for a walk through Kensington Gardens to the Albert Hall – I had forgotten that Michael had played there – then to Kensington Palace, before setting out to Heathrow for our flight to Bergen, Norway.
Bergen Norway
Nice to have a paid for ticket, and nice that they didn’t query our massive luggage. Bergen is a lovely city, and we are staying at a great hotel overlooking the harbour, which is a little reminiscent of Constitution Dock in Hobart, but with buildings of much greater character. Around the harbour, there are lots of outdoor beer drinking places, and the whole area is overlooked by hills rising just behind the city.
We had been told that Norway is expensive. It is outrageous. 2 beers – A$30, main course A$60-80. Elly has offered to look after the finances here, so I won’t freak out.
Most of you will know that we came to Bergen early because our son Michael is playing here with the Mahler Chamber Orchestra on the 25th. He flew in from Prague just after us, and we met him for a beer before he left for an early night. They had a late night in Prague, and had spent the day travelling via Oslo, with lots of waiting at airports.
Bergen from our hotel room at midnight
Next day was quite leisurely, wandering around town, visiting a few sights (and sites), also riding the funicular to get a great view of Bergen. Elly was salivating at the fish market, adjacent to the hotel, and had entree, a break, then main course for lunch, another break, then early dinner – all crab!
Main course enthusiastic
Bergen is apparently the city with the 2nd highest rainfall in Europe (so someone told Elly), but we are having the most beautiful weather. We brought cold weather clothes, but don’t need them here – yet.
Grieghallen Bergen May 25th 2012
We went along to a concert hall named Grieghallen to a concert by the Mahler Chamber Orchestra, featuring, of course, Michael. It was a fabulous concert, a couple of Beethoven piano concerti and some Stravinski. The orchestra was brilliant, and the hall was full. The audience reaction was really enthusiastic.
Michael is in the middle.
Following the concert Michael asked us along to the after concert party, and introduced us to a few of the musicians. Really lovely people, and all seem to have a really good relationship with Michael. We felt honoured to be there. They have all gone off to another party, even though we and Michael have to catch the 7am airport bus in the morning, and it is now 1 am.
Bergen is a lovely city and we are glad we are coming back with the Witorz’s and the Gelbarts.
Tomorrow we fly up to the Lofoten Islands.
Lofoten Island Thursday 31st May 2012
Elly and I with a catatonic Michael (hadn’t been to bed), headed for the airport. We were flying to Svolvær, which is in the Lofoten islands, a place of which, before this trip, I had never heard. The Lofotens are an island group off the north west coast of Norway. We flew, with a stop in Bodō, of which I had also never heard. Stepping on the aircraft in Bergen in t-shirt temperatures (well almost!), and stepping off in Bodō in 7 degrees in a strong wind was a bit of a shock, but the flight up was interesting, looking down on lots of Slartibartfast handiwork.
We took off from Bodō for the 20 min flight to Svolvær (in a Dash 8 for those who care), and after descending on an instrument approach, I could just make out the water straight down – however, not good enough to continue, so we did a go around and climbed away. For those non aviation types, this is normal procedure, but it doesn’t happen all that often. But this was the second one this trip for us – the first was Etihad into London, again after an instrument approach, but not due to weather. I assume the preceding aircraft was a bit slow leaving the runway.
The crew ( including sexy blond Norwegian first officer – female) thought about it for a while, then diverted to one of the other islands, where we finally landed. I then witnessed something which 40 something years of aviation has taught me is impossible. There was a bus actually waiting for us as we collected our bags, to take us to Svolvær. We should have had to wait at least an hour!
It was obvious, despite the gloomy weather, as we rode in the bus, that this place was pretty special. Towering, jagged peaks, still with snow attached, rising sharply into the cloud, and pretty little villages and green fields below.
We collected our Avis car, a small Peugeot, rented at a price for which you could buy the latest Audi in Australia, and drove to our accommodation. This is called a Rorbu (plural is Rorbuer), and is basically a refurbished 19th century fishermans’ hut. A very common form of accommodation here, it is very cosy and warm, has 2 bedrooms with ensuite, a living room and kitchen.
Our Rorbu in Svolvaer.
Our view.
Nearby.
Our view also.
We woke the next morning to beautiful weather, and a stunning view of our surroundings, had a lovely breakfast in the character filled restaurant attached, and set off for a drive to the southern most part of the island chain. We witnessed some spectacular cloud formations which appeared to herald a deterioration in the weather, and, in fact, did.
Ominous clouds
The magnificent snow clad peaks we were driving around, gradually became enmeshed in rain and cloud, but still we had a great day, dampened for Michael who had developed a sudden sore throat and cold. We now have emergency disease prevention procedures in place to avoid catching it ourselves. Michael does admit to some culpability in as much as he had about 2 hours sleep in the preceding 3 days!
Cod fish drying on racks – Feb to May.
More Rorbuer.
And beaches!
The next morning greeted us with snow and hail showers, but not to be deterred Elly suggested we go for a drive, which we did, and saw some really spectacular scenery, this time to the north of Svolvær. Michael still not well, stayed home.
Our afternoon was devoted to a boat trip which was to the Trollfjord to view the scenery and mix it with the sea eagles. The weather was freezing so we wore full bad weather suits supplied on the boat. A short time was spent fishing – that was to catch food for the eagles. Elly caught a couple, of course.
We then set off followed by flocks of large seagulls, because the girl deckhands were feeding them from a couple of dozen loaves of bread.
Michael feeding seagulls.
We met up with the coastal steamer which was inbound from Bodō ( which we were scheduled to board outbound the next evening), and we came alongside and transferred about 20 of their passengers to our boat for the sea eagle experience.
When the eagles came, it was just beautiful, as the girls threw a fish into the water, and the eagle swooped down and plucked it from the sea. Elly and Michael were taking turns with the camera to capture it.
The next day was our last day in Svolvær, and we decided we needed some exercise before catching the coastal steamer to Bodō at 8pm. Based on information received from the tourist information office, we drove out of town and eventually found a walking track at the base of a mountain. We boldly marched forward, not sure whether we were on the intended track. Eventually it became apparent that we were indeed on some kind of track, and embarked on a mountain climb, with strong winds, small hail, and some snow to keep us amused.
The peak seemed to be a long way away, and wasn’t getting any closer as we climbed. The view, however, was getting better, and the wind was getting stronger. Michael was up ahead, and Elly was showing signs of stopping to wait for our return. With more encouragement and advice that she would get very cold very quickly if she stopped, Elly pushed on.
Finally we made the summit, to be presented with a most magnificent view over Svolvær and surroundings, mountain peaks and lakes.
Then the weather took a turn for the worse, and we were enveloped by snow and hail, along with the strong winds. Survival became the priority, so we quickly set about the descent, winding our way over rocky paths and swampy plateaux back to the base of the mountain, with me holding Elly’s hand to help her negotiate the rocks.
Finally we made it down, feeling very smug at our achievement, even though we were wet and tired after the 3 hour adventure. A short drive back to find a very comfortable restaurant/bar on the waterfront, boasting a fireplace, and some comfortable lounge chairs looking across to a jagged snow covered peak rising from the sea. This is bliss.
Svolvaer- Bodo -Trondheim
We waited in comfort, with a glass of red, until the time came to return our hire car and embark the coastal steamer, scheduled to arrive in Bodō at 2am. (Bodō is actually supposed to have the last O with a diagonal stroke through it, but I can’t work out how to do that on the iPad, so you will have to live with Ō).
The name “Coastal Steamer” evokes images of some ancient rust bucket with a Humphrey Bogart type character as captain, and with your chances of arrival with your throat intact, not very high.
Our coastal steamer, on the other hand was a large, modern, handsome vessel, with many decks, incorporating, several lounges, restaurant, observation deck, and, for those who want to pay, cabins. These boats cruise up and down the Norwegian coast day and night ( or in our case, day and day). It even has free wi-fi!
I might mention as a point of interest, that although it is daylight all day and night, one just goes to bed at normal time anyway, so it’s not a big deal. More of a big deal mid winter I should imagine.
A slightly different situation had been scheduled here by the travel agent. The steamer arrived in Bodō at 2am, and we then had a short stay in a local hotel, and would then take the train to Trondheim at midday. When I queried the agent about the ease of finding the hotel at 2am, I was told that the hotel was adjacent to the jetty, so it wouldn’t be a problem. It wasn’t, ( there) and it was.(a problem).
So there we were, on a deserted jetty, with no hotel in sight at 2am. Fortunately our resourceful Michael had an app named Cities2go on his phone and had downloaded Bodō. He looked up the hotel and set off with us following, dragging our massive bags behind us. 20 mins later we arrived at the hotel. Fortunately it had stopped raining just as we left the boat.
A few hour sleep, and we were off to the station to catch the train through to Trondheim, a 10 hour journey. It was really pleasant, relaxing on the train, watching some beautiful snow covered scenery, and, at Elly’s insistence, playing 500 three handed.
Because food is sooooo expensive here, we have started to do the Israeli trick, having breakfast at the hotel, and making a couple of extra rolls, and sneaking them out in a bag, to have for lunch. Still can’t escape the A$15 beers though. Michael is gobsmacked at the beer price, saying it is more than 4 to 5 times the Berlin price.
Markers to show crossing the Arctic Circle ( southbound this time)
Trondheim Monday 4th June 2012
We arrived in Trondheim at 10pm and found our hotel. Michael called a friend from the orchestra who lives in Trondheim, and disappeared, but returned about midnight.
Next day we savoured what is renowned as Norway’s best hotel breakfast. An amazing array of food of all types. A bit too upmarket for us to steal lunch as well, apart from the fact that we didn’t need lunch after that breakfast.
We set off for a stroll around town, along the river, looking at all the restored waterfront buildings, then on to the cathedral, a truly majestic edifice, began around 1100 AD and added to over the next 400 years. The story goes that when the last stone is laid, it, and the city will sink into the sea. So they keep fiddling with it, so it will never be finished. We went in, and climbed the tower for a great view of the city.
View of Trondheim from the cathedral tower.
We then climbed aboard the hop on hop off bus to have a city tour. Not a great service, but we achieved an overall view of the place. Elly then insisted we visit the local Museum of arts and design, for which Michael and I could barely contain our enthusiasm. What an exciting and fun place that was – not!
Tomorrow we head for Oslo, where we will leave Michael who will stay a day or two with friends, and we will push on to Reykjavik in Iceland to begin the next stage of the adventure. Our travelling companions, Bev and Andrew, and John and Bronia will be leaving Australia in a couple of days to join us in Reykjavik.